Mud Dobbers, Wasp and other insects love to build nest in the area. Two things come to mind-- the first is that you mention: " Ventilation has never changed, and has lots of space.
From the document above, 1" is the proper rear clearance, with zero on sides and top. More than 1" in back allows turbulence rather than smooth air flow up over the cooling unit. Have you cleaned the propane jet as well as burner tube? Even a spec of dust can restrict gas flow and therefore total BTU's available for "cooling".
And, it is very difficult to tell the proper "flame height" by looking at it. I was having problems with my fridge not cooling on gas even though the freezer was reaching zero. I pulled the unit out of the wall just far enough to tilt the top part into the hallway so I could remove the baffle in the chimney. After cleaning the baffle and chimney the fridge cools great and the freezer gets to about 15 below zero.
Not worth the risk with propane. I ran the refig all night off LP. Woke up excited to check the temp, in the refrig was 24 degrees! However, the thermostat off, 3, 5, 7, max was set to 5. So I decided to adjust it back out a little, 5 turns out. Today's outdoor high temp was around 80 degrees. When I got home and checked the temp, 70 degrees in frig.
So I adjusted it back in a little and it's cooling down again. I think I'm going to take wolfe10's advise and buy a new regulator. I'm guessing water column are newer technology. Mine in probably from 92'. Phil, Water column is in reference to how the output pressure or gas flow is measured. Like a air pressure gauge is used to check tire pressure.
Most gas regulators for RV appliances are set at 11in. Pressure gauges do not measure things very well at the low of a pressure. I stopped by Jerry's RV on my way home to purchase a new regulator. After I told my story to Jim, he said it might not be the regulator. He recommended that I bring in the camper and have them test the pressure with a manometer. He said I could have cranked up the pressure so much that the 'low' setting is now over heating and thus cooling the fridge.
He said my type of frig has a low and high burner settings. High for cooling, and low during idle. He thinks the idle setting is cracked way up. I guess I'll need to take the camper down to the shop after all.
You are correct DD, but a pressure regulator setting of 9in. That to me means the pressure readings relate to the flow rate, so its a direct indicator of the flame size the way I look at the reading. The regulator settings for the water heaters and furnaces set the flame size, where on a stove the burner is set by the burner knobs.
Placing a regulator with a 11in. When you reduce the setting of the valve, thus reducing the flow , the pressure before the valve is the same 11 inches of pressure, the flame is smaller. It is true you can change the flame size by changing the pressure but that is not how its done. The pressure will remain the same because thats the function of the regulator, which within the design limits flow wise of the regulator and the flame size is controlled by the metering orifice.
Thank You! One year later Not enjoying my entire camper packed with ice chests! My local RV repair shop doesn't allow me to drop off just the camper. So I planned on alternative method of transportation for a week, called up Jerry's RV to schedule an appt.
They are booked out for a month! I was leaning on replacing the cooling unit, but I wanted to confirm the CU was bad. I followed Dometics instructions:. To check the cooling unit, first verify the AC heating element is good. Then place approximately one gallon of water inside the refrigerator and place a thermometer in one of the containers of water. Supply volts direct to the AC heating element and operate for at least 12 hours. Check the temperature on the thermometer. It should be at 45 degrees or lower depending on test conditions.
After 24 hours, in hot 75 degree day temp, this morning the freezer is degrees, and the refrigerator is 30 degrees. So I know for sure the cooling unit is working. My next piece of hardware to troubleshoot is the thermostat. I still can't find instructions on how to test the thermostat. This is the thermostat.
I'm thinking I will remove the thermostat and check any changes of resistance when temp changes. I can find instructions on testing a thermistor, but not thermostat.
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in. Systems and Appliances Search In. Sign in to follow this Followers 1. Recommended Posts. Report post. Posted July 30, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. How long has it been sense you used the fridge on LP? Think this link will get you to an owners manual for it. You are correct, you do not need 12 VDC for your 2 way model. Previous Page. Next Page. Absorption refrigerators for lp-gas and electric operation 15 pages.
Refrigerator Dometic RM Manual Procedure for changing cooling unit in caravan 95 and ndr refrigerators 7 pages. Wiring Switch Operation 2. No electric operation. Thermostat Cools properly on other mode s. You may have to repeat the lighting procedure several times to purge the air out of the gas lines. Check the AC volts at the receptacle where the refrigerator is attached. If voltage drops below volts, cooling efficiency will decrease with voltage decrease. Page 9 B.
Remove all wires from the assembly. If there is no resistance when pressing the button, the piezo igniter is defective. Disconnect DC power at the terminal block. Disconnect high voltage cable from electrode. Reconnect DC power to the terminal block. The filter can become saturated and cause a restriction to gas flow. If you suspect a restriction, first verify the thermostat and bypass screw are good. Jad ISt? JO EN.
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